Hi All, this one is a shameless “reblogging” courtesy of those nice guys at Games Workshop’s new community site!
****Updated 18/07/2017 – recommending sponge dish cloths instead of toilet roll****
I see you’ve found my How to series!
Today I’m going to talk about wet palettes. What the hell are they, you might ask? Well, they serve all the same functionality as a traditional paint palette, with the addition that they also keep your paint thin and prevent it from dying out.
Welcome to another post in my How to series!
Today I’ll be talking about my experiences with quickshade, telling you how I’ve found it to work, some things to avoid, some things to definitely do, and some expectation management.
I should also let you know that at time of writing I have only used Quickshade strongtone.
Today’s post is a continuation of of my “How to make Dungeon Tiles” series. For part one in this series. explaining how to make your master, please follow the link above. For the second post explaining how to make the mold, please click here!
So, up to now you’ve gotten as far as having your mold. Then you’ve been patiently waiting for me to pull my finger out (I know I’m sorry!)… well, it’s out and we’re on!
Hopefully you’ve got those laser cut MDF tiles that I spoke about in the first post, because we’re going to be using them here.
Sorry it’s been a while – work – you know how it is 🙂
Those of you who have been following my blog will know that I did a post a while back considering how to base the table. I didn’t know whether to try and put down some paving across the entire board, or if I should just texture the board and call it bare earth.
This is part two of my tutorial on how I made my dungeon tiles. For part one, please click here.
We’ve gotten as far as producing one, but hopefully two or three unique masters. By that I mean we’ve got three tiles sculpted in greenstuff. You’ve let them set and they’re ready for casting!
As you know, I’ve got an ongoing project on whereby I’m making my own dungeon crawler game. Aside from rules, I’m also manufacturing as much of my own physical materials as possible.
One of the things I started with was the humble dungeon tile. It was really important to me that the tiles were both functional and looked realistic. To that end they needed to be large and flat enough to accommodate a standard 25mm square base, but they also needed to be textured and coloured in such a way to really capture that centuries old subterranean architecture feel 🙂
My hangover is gone now so I feel much better thank you.
I spent yesterday evening and some of today doing more work to my first house, first and foremost I roofed it using cardboard from an old cereal box. You need to cut this into 3/4″ wide strips the length of your roof.
I’ve decided to start building a Frostgrave gaming table. I’m thinking 3′ x 3′ and modular. Style wise I want it to look quite like Mordheim, that is lots of semi ruined medieval style multi level dwellings It’ll also be densely packed with narrow streets and corridors. Because it’s Frostgrave, it’ll obviously be winter themed, and contain a few set pieces like a wizards tower and a grave yard with crypt too.
That’s a lot to be getting on with, so for the sake of cost and fun I’ll be scratch building as much of this as I can. Now I’ve never really scratch built anything of note before so don’t go expecting a museum piece, but hopefully I’ll be able to produce something special.
So, lets begin: This afternoon my Hirst Arts cobblestone floor mould arrived, so I made myself little trip down to The Range (Thats like a cheap hobby/DIY/Homeware store in the UK) and bought some plaster of paris.